Please check our Facebook page, Vongontahaus, for latest puppy announcements.
The first planned breeding will be :
Jake von Gonta Haus x Bailey Von Gonta Haus.
The breeding is scheduled for first or second week of May of 2019, and with puppies to be on the ground in July 2019 and ready to go home in early Sept 2019.
This pedigree will be:
3 - 3 SG Jucan von Peroh SCHH3, (BSPХ3), FH2
↳4 - 4 ↳V Karn vom Fegelhof SCHH3 (SG-BSP), IP03
↳5 - 5 ↳G Iola vom Fegelhof SCHH3
↳ - 44 ↳G Ahsra von Peroh SCHH3-BSP
↳5 - 5 ↳V Yoschy von der Döllenwiese (BSP & V-LGA) SCHH3
↳5 - 5 ↳G Freia vom Röderbrunnen SCHH3
5 - 5,5 SG Bandit vom Oberhausener Kreuz SCHH3 [SG BSP] IP3 FH1
So in other words, this is strong line breeding on Jucan von Peroh, and champion after champion is this bloodline. Many dogs German National champion. Many dogs KKL-1 rating by the breed warden. Multiple time Schutzhund III or IPO III titles. We primarily, but not exclusively, focus on the West German Working lines, with good structure, good hips, very social, and medium/high prey drive.
These puppies will be magnificent structure, and very high prey/ball drive, with rock solid nerves and perfect for active households and working households. We suggest you read our F.A.Q section and fill out a puppy contract and put a deposit to get a reservation on this world class litter.
Sign up to hear from us about planned litters, titles and other news. These puppies go fast, so be sure to add yourself to our mailing list. Please list your phone number and what city and state you are from, or email us at email@example.com
On this page, you will find all the answers you need to choose and purchase your German Shepherd Puppies. If you are interested in a puppy from the current litter, or any future litter, please e-mail me directly at firstname.lastname@example.org and I will get back to you within 24 hours.
Please scroll through the entire page for all the information, and answers to many FAQ's.
We have terrific, lovable puppies for sale. If you still have questions feel free to contact me anytime!
Registration & Pricing
All puppies whelped will initially go with 'Limited Registration' on their A.K.C papers. This means you may not breed your puppy. We would prefer our pups to go to fun-loving companion homes and not be bred. 'Open Registration (breeding rights) will need to be discussed and agreed upon by me. Any Puppy sold with 'Open' Registration (breeding rights) will be sold for an additional fee. This is explained on or F.A.Q page
I accept Cash, Money Orders, Checks (all checks must clear the bank before I send the puppy home with you), and PayPal (with a 3% processing fee), credit cards with ( a with a 3% processing fee)
Once the puppies are born I require a $500.00 non-refundable deposit. The remaining payment is due on or before the day your puppy goes home, but preferably by the 6th week The total price of puppies depends on which parents were used. We conduct the Volhard puppy aptitude test at 6 weeks of age, and observing the puppy since birth to match up each puppy with each new family.
Shipping & Delivery
I deliver to the New York City metro area for a area for a small travel fee, and frequently meet New Jersey or New York families This includes Brooklyn, Staten lsland, and Long Island and Queens. I will travel to the Philadelphia area, in P.A or as far as Bucks County P.A for a $100.00 travel fee. I will travel in New England into Connecticut or into Massachusetts, as far as Boston for a $200 fee. I am also willing to fly your puppy. I will fly puppies out of the Newark airport. Airline fee's, the shipping crate, and health certificate costs are all your responsibility, and can average an additional $400 to $650 depending on which air line is used and the size of your puppy when shipped. A 10-12 week old puppy is heavier and has a slightly higher travel fee.
I do not make a profit from charging you shipping.
I fly puppies via Delta or other airlines. Some airlines are less expensive, but is limited on arrival destinations, or may require several stops in a single journey which is more stressful for a young puppy. I will try to use lowest cost airline first. In the event that they do not fly into your needed destination, I will fly Delta.
Or you are welcome to fly here and pick up your up in person.
All puppies will be given a health examination by a Veterinarian to be deemed healthy enough to withstand air travel.
Establishing a Veterinarian and getting your puppy in to finish his/her vaccine schedule is the most important thing you can do for them. Without proper vaccine protection your puppy is in danger of becoming seriously ill. Once the series of puppy vaccines are completed, your puppy is up-to-date for a year. After the 1st year, it depends on the preference of your Veterinarian to determine his/her future vaccine schedule. My puppies will receive their 1st de-worming at 3 weeks old, their 2nd at 6 weeks, then your Veterinarian will take over. The mother dog is also de-wormed before breeding as a precaution. The 1st set of vaccinations are given at 6 weeks old, then your Veterinarian will take over and continue to give booster vaccinations every 3-4 weeks for a total of 3 (sometimes 4) booster shots .
What comes with my new puppy?
A Puppy-Kit will come with every puppy that goes to their new home. The Kit will have an "A.K.C" folder that contains, papers to register your puppy in your name, tips on traveling, training, diet etc. The Kit will also contain a "Pet-Passport" in which I have been documenting everything from the day they were born. It will contain birth-date, color, sex, age, vaccine schedule, de-worming schedule etc. It contains everything you will need to keep everything straight for the rest of his/her life. I will also put in the folder a picture of the Mother and the Father and pictures of your puppy as he/she grew. I will give you a sample of the food that the puppies have been eating, and some treats/chewing bones. You can keep the food the same, or you can change it. If you choose to change their diet, gradually change over to your brand using the food I've supplied, this helps avoid vomiting and diarrhea. I also include a housebreaking D.V.D to help you along the way to crate training and housebreaking. Lastly, they will come with a favorite toy; something they've played with since they were old enough to play. It's comforting, it smells like mom, their brothers and sisters, and the home they came from.
Ok, I want a puppy! What do I do now?
The first thing to do is contact me directly email@example.com or call me 201-333-7957. Pending there are still puppies left or the waiting list isn't full, I'll discuss with you what you're looking for in a puppy, get to know you, answer any of your questions, and ask my own. Once the formalities are out of the way, and of the puppies are already born, you need to place a $500 non-refundable deposit. I accept cash, money orders, cashiers checks and PayPal or Credit Card with a 3% processing fee attached. Once again, I do not accept deposits until the litter is born. If the litter is not born yet, you will still be placed on the ‘unofficial’ waiting list. Once your deposit is down, you're guaranteed your puppy, no one can take your place, or bump you. Once the $500 is down, the rest of the balance is due by the time the puppy goes home. You can pay little by little or all at once before they go home, however you want to do it, is fine with me.
How do I choose my puppy?
If you have read this website at all, you will have seen that via videos and text I went into a great deal of detail of the kind of dogs we produce, and that we work our dogs in the sport of I.P.O and try to remain as close as possible to the breed standard. Our dogs are our family pets and live with us in the home and are not kenneled outdoor dogs. You will have also seen that are dogs are directly imported from Europe, either Germany or the Netherlands. You will have seen we develop working line dogs with an excellent "off" switch that can settle in the home and be excellent pets and family members. . so you should have some idea of the genetics we're looking for. After having gone back and forth and side to side in trying to decide how to allow people to choose their puppies. I finally decided on a way that makes the most sense, is best for the puppies well being, and the people's interest. Despite having your eyes set on a certain color or even gender, I discourage, and rarely allow people to choose their puppies solely based on color, however I do take it into deep consideration. There are several reasons for this. First off, color changes dramatically as young puppies age. The sable colored puppy at birth, could be brownish at 7 weeks old, and dark grey at adulthood, and the dark black and tan puppy at birth, could be an tan-point bi-color several weeks later. Secondly, this puppy is going to be with you for the rest of its life, which could be 14+ years, wouldn't you rather spend it with a dog whose personality fits your liking rather than its color? If you want the calmest, laziest, most laid back puppy, more often than not, the puppy you chose solely based on color, could end up being the craziest one in the bunch! I need to look out for the best interest of my puppies also, they need to be with a family that suits them as well. I can't very well allow that crazy-hyper little puppy to go home to a family with tiny children who are afraid of rambunctious dogs, or a senior couple who do not intend to go on walks or actively exercise the puppy. This is why I decided to place puppies based on the new strategy:
Each person or family on the waiting list needs to tell me exactly what they are looking for in an adult dog. What's your ideal pet? If you could pick a dog 'Subway Sandwich Style', what would you add and what would you leave? Tell me about yourself and your family. Other pets? Kids? House or Apartment? Are you active, or chilled out? All these details are important. Many people think they need to 'mold' the truth and tell me what they think I want to hear. They think that if they tell me they're at work 10 hours a day and the dog will be alone, I won't think that's a good environment for a puppy and therefor not let them have one. If that was the case, I wouldn't have so many German Shepherd dogs of my own! Everyone is different, that detail just lets me know that the craziest, loudest most active puppy, probably isn't a good fit for you. As long as you provide enough exercise and socialization and love, is what is important. If you are looking for a yard dog to protect your property we are not the breeder for you.
From birth, I keep track of how each puppies temperament develops, their habits and new occurrences in behavior. Every single week, I observe each puppy , and write an individual weekly 'bio' of them. When the puppies are 6 weeks old, I will have a pretty good feel for their personalities. My goal is to make it like you were actually here! Then, I'll take all my observations and apply it to what you're looking for in a family pet, and your initial desires for certain colors and genders. I will then narrow your choices down to 2-4 puppies (depending on the size of the litter) and then I let you decide which puppy you would like to take home from those.
So, here a t VonGontaHaus, I made choosing your new addition a group effort. It's between their current 'family' (us) and their future 'family' (you).
The phrase, 'it takes a village', doesn't just apply to people!
Your puppy is only 7-8 weeks old when you take them home. They have a lot of developing to do behaviorally, let alone physically. Environment, enrichment, socialization and so much more have a huge part in developing your puppies personality. I have done my best to choose the puppy whose personality I thought would be suit you and your preferences, but so many things change due to so many factors. I'm sure you've raised many puppies before so this is old news, but just remember, they're learning and are going to change as they grow and develop.
Where am I in line for choosing my puppy?
I always post the current litters 'Waiting List'. It shows the order in which people stand to choose their puppy, where they are located, and if they prefer a male or female. I keep this list current so people know where they stand. I post on my Facebook page. Nothing can take your place, or move you down on the list.. Your deposit holds your place and other families will be turned down because you have your deposit in place. If your deposit is in, you're golden!
How do I pay for my puppy?
Once the $500 is down, the remainder is due by the time the puppy goes home. You can pay little by little throughout the 8 weeks they are with me or all at once before they go home, however you want to do it, is fine with me. Just like the deposit, I accept, cash, money order, cashiers checks and PayPay or credit card with a 3% processing fee. Your puppy must be paid for in full before he/she goes home with you. I cannot do 'payments' and let you take your puppy home with money still owed.
What if I want a puppy in the future, but not right now?
I'm always taking names down for people who want a puppy in the future, but aren't quite ready for one. I also take information from people who want a puppy, but there is not more room on the waiting list, or all the puppies have been spoken for. There are also situations where I don't have a litter available yet and people inquire. All of these situations are handled the same. I always have a waiting list. To be on the waiting list I require your name, phone number, email and city and state you reside in. I DO NOT accept deposits until the puppies are born. This ensures I have the gender and color preferences people want, and numbers. Once they are born, I re-contact everyone on the waiting list to determine if they still want a puppy, I f so, then I accept the deposit (see above paragraph), and make you sign a puppy contract.)
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