Registration & Pricing

All puppies whelped will initially go with ‘Limited Registration’ on their A.K.C papers. This means you may not breed your puppy. We would prefer our pups to go to fun-loving companion homes and not be bred. ‘Open Registration (breeding rights) will need to be discussed and agreed upon by me. Any Puppy sold with ‘Open’ Registration (breeding rights) will be sold for an additional fee. This is explained on or F.A.Q page.

I accept Cash, Money Orders, Checks (all checks must clear the bank before I send the puppy home with you), and PayPal (with a 3% processing fee), credit cards with ( a with a 3% processing fee)

Our Puppies are $2,500 to $3,000 dollars and up.
Once the puppies are born I require a $500.00 non-refundable deposit. The remaining payment is due on or before the day your puppy goes home, but preferably by the 7th week The total price of puppies depends on which parents were used. We conduct the Volhard puppy aptitude test at 6 weeks of age, and observing the puppy since birth to match up each puppy with each new family.

Shipping & Delivery

These German Shepherd Pups are for sale in NJ. I deliver to the New York City metro area for a area for a small travel fee, and frequently meet New Jersey or New York families This includes Brooklyn, Staten lsland, and Long Island and Queens. I will travel to the Philadelphia area, in P.A or as far as Bucks County P.A for a $250.00 travel fee. I will travel in New England into Connecticut or into Massachusetts, as far as Boston for a $400 fee. I am also willing to fly your puppy. I will fly puppies out of the Newark airport. Airline fee’s, the shipping crate, and health certificate costs are all your responsibility, and can average an additional $400 to $650 depending on which air line is used and the size of your puppy when shipped. A 10-12 week old puppy is heavier and has a slightly higher travel fee. I do not make a profit from charging you shipping. I fly puppies via Delta or other airlines. Some airlines are less expensive, but is limited on arrival destinations, or may require several stops in a single journey which is more stressful for a young puppy. I will try to use lowest cost airline first. In the event that they do not fly into your needed destination, I will fl Delta. Or you are welcome to fly here and pick up your up in person.

All puppies will be given a health examination by a Veterinarian to be deemed healthy enough to withstand air travel.

Vaccine/De-worming Schedule

Establishing a Veterinarian and getting your puppy in to finish his/her vaccine schedule is the most important thing you can do for them. Without proper vaccine protection your puppy is in danger of becoming seriously ill. Once the series of puppy vaccines are completed, your puppy is up-to-date for a year. After the 1st year, it depends on the preference of your Veterinarian to determine his/her future vaccine schedule. My puppies will receive their 1st de-worming at 3 weeks old, their 2nd at 6 weeks, then your Veterinarian will take over. The mother dog is also de-wormed before breeding as a precaution. The 1st set of vaccinations are given at 6 weeks old, then your Veterinarian will take over and continue to give booster vaccinations every 3-4 weeks for a total of 3 (sometimes 4) booster shots.

Vaccine/De-worming Schedule

Establishing a Veterinarian and getting your puppy in to finish his/her vaccine schedule is the most important thing you can do for them. Without proper vaccine protection your puppy is in danger of becoming seriously ill. Once the series of puppy vaccines are completed, your puppy is up-to-date for a year. After the 1st year, it depends on the preference of your Veterinarian to determine his/her future vaccine schedule. My puppies will receive their 1st de-worming at 3 weeks old, their 2nd at 6 weeks, then your Veterinarian will take over. The mother dog is also de-wormed before breeding as a precaution. The 1st set of vaccinations are given at 6 weeks old, then your Veterinarian will take over and continue to give booster vaccinations every 3-4 weeks for a total of 3 (sometimes 4) booster shots.

What comes with my new puppy?

A Puppy-Kit will come with every puppy that goes to their new home. The Kit will have an “A.K.C” folder that contains, papers to register your puppy in your name, tips on traveling, training, diet etc. I offer an extended 9 year health guarantee as part of my contract of your puppy, if you stay on the food and supplements I recommend. The Kit will also contain a “Pet-Passport” in which I have been documenting everything from the day they were born. It will contain birth-date, color, sex, age, vaccine schedule, de-worming schedule etc. It contains everything you will need to keep everything straight for the rest of his/her life. I will also put in the folder a picture of the Mother and the Father and pictures of your puppy as he/she grew. I will contact you two weeks before the puppy goes home, so you can order the pawTree food that the puppies have been eating, so you can avoid diarrhea because of sudden changing food. You can keep the food the same, or you can change it. If you choose to change their diet, gradually change over to your new brand, this helps avoid vomiting and diarrhea. However, if you stay on the PawTree Diet, I add in a 9year health guarantee. If you change the food, the 9year health guarantee is null and void. I also include a housebreaking D.V.D to help you along the way to crate training and housebreaking. Lastly, they will come with a favorite toy; something they’ve played with since they were old enough to play. It’s comforting, it smells like mom, their brothers and sisters, and the home they came from.

Ok, I want a puppy! What do I do now?

The first thing to do is contact me directly vongontahaus@gmail.com or call me 201-333-7957. Pending there are still puppies left or the waiting list isn’t full, I’ll discuss with you what you’re looking for in a puppy, get to know you, answer any of your questions, and ask my own. Once the formalities are out of the way, and of the puppies are already born, you need to place a $500 non-refundable deposit. Click to apply for a puppy. I accept cash, money orders, cashiers checks and PayPal or Credit Card with a 3% processing fee attached. You need to fill out the puppy reservation form and mail it back to us by postal mail. If your deposit is via PayPal you can email the filled out, and signed, form back. Once your deposit is down, you’re guaranteed your puppy, no one can take your place, or bump you. Once the $500 is down, the rest of the balance is due by the time the puppy goes home. You can pay little by little or all at once before they go home, however you want to do it, is fine with me.

Further Details on Your puppy

How do I choose my puppy?

If you have read this website at all, you will have seen that via videos and text I went into a great deal of detail of the kind of dogs we produce, and that we work our dogs in the sport of I.P.O and try to remain as close as possible to the breed standard. I have explained the difference between West German Showlines and Working lines. As mentioned on our page, we don’t breed American Showlines. Our dogs are our family pets and live with us in the home and are not kenneled outdoor dogs. You will also have read that we do hip and elbow testing by an O.F.A certified veterinarian. You will have also seen that are dogs are directly imported from Europe, either Germany or the Netherlands. You will have seen we develop working line dogs with an excellent “off” switch that can settle in the home and be excellent pets and family members. so you should have some idea of the genetics we’re looking for. After having gone back and forth and side to side in trying to decide how to allow people to choose their puppies. I finally decided on a way that makes the most sense, is best for the puppies well being, and the people’s interest. Despite having your eyes set on a certain color or even gender, I discourage, and rarely allow people to choose their puppies solely based on color, however I do take it into deep consideration. There are several reasons for this. First off, color changes dramatically as young puppies age. Our puppies are either black, sable, dark sable, or black and tan. We don’t have black and red. The sable colored puppy at birth, could be brownish at 7weeks old, and dark grey at adulthood, and the dark black and tan puppy at birth, could be an tan-point bi-color several weeks later. Secondly, this puppy is going to be with you for the rest of its life, which could be 14+ years, wouldn’t you rather spend it with a dog whose personality fits your liking rather than its color? If you want the calmest, laziest, most laid back puppy, more often than not, the puppy you chose solely based on color, could end up being the craziest one in the bunch! I need to look out for the best interest of my puppies also, they need to be with a family that suits them as well. I can’t very well allow that crazy-hyper little puppy to go home to a family with tiny children who are afraid of rambunctious dogs, or a senior couple who do not intend to go on walks or actively exercise the puppy. This is why I decided to place puppies based on the new strategy:

From birth, I keep track of how each puppies temperament develops, their habits and new occurrences in behavior. Every single week, I observe each puppy , and write an individual weekly ‘bio’ of them. When the puppies are 6 weeks old, I will have a pretty good feel for their personalities. My goal is to make it like you were actually here! Then, I’ll take all my observations and apply it to what you’re looking for in a family pet, and your initial desires for certain colors and genders. Depending on litter size, I will then narrow your choices down to 2-4 puppies and then I let you decide which puppy you would like to take home from those. I also believe in the Volhard Personality profile, a well known scientific test, can be a valuable tool.

So, here at VonGontaHaus, I made choosing your new addition a group effort. It’s between their current ‘family’ (us) and their future ‘family’ (you).
The phrase, ‘it takes a village’, doesn’t just apply to people!

Remember!!

Your puppy is only 8-10 weeks old when you take them home. They have a lot of developing to do behaviorally, let alone physically. Environment, enrichment, socialization and so much more have a huge part in developing your puppies personality. I have done my best to choose the puppy whose personality I thought would be suit you and your preferences, but so many things change due to so many factors. I’m sure you’ve raised many puppies before so this is old news, but just remember, they’re learning and are going to change as they grow and develop.

Where am I in line for choosing my puppy?

I always post the current litters ‘Waiting List’ on my Facebook page once the puppies are born. It shows the order in which people stand to choose their puppy, where they are located, and if they prefer a male or female. I keep this list current so people know where they stand. I post on my Facebook page. Nothing can take your place, or move you down on the list.. Your deposit holds your place and other families will be turned down because you have your deposit in place. If your deposit is in, you’re golden!

How do I pay for my puppy?

Our Puppies are $1,800 to $2,500 depending which parents are used and whether sold with limited or full registration.
Once the $500 is down, the remainder is due by the time the puppy goes home. You can pay little by little throughout the 8 weeks they are with me or all at once before they go home, however you want to do it, is fine with me. Just like the deposit, I accept, cash, money order, cashiers checks and PayPal or credit card with a 3% processing fee. Your puppy must be paid for in full before he/she goes home with you. I cannot do ‘payments’ and let you take your puppy home with money still owed. Or you can pay the balance, in cash, once you pick up your puppy..

What if I want a puppy in the future, but not right now?

I’m always taking names down for people who want a puppy in the future, but aren’t quite ready for one. I also take information from people who want a puppy, but there is not more room on the waiting list, or all the puppies have been spoken for. There are also situations where I don’t have a litter available yet and people inquire. All of these situations are handled the same. I always have a waiting list. To be on the waiting list I require your name, phone number, email and city and state you reside in. I DO NOT accept deposits until the puppies are born. This ensures I have the gender and color preferences people want, and numbers. Once they are born, I re-contact everyone on the waiting list to determine if they still want a puppy, I f so, then I accept the deposit (see above paragraph), and make you sign a puppy contract.)